Ride the Countryside - Cambodia by Dirt Bike

A trail in Koh Kong Province

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Motorcycle Trekking in Cambodia

​The Cambodian countryside is a real delight for motorcycle treks. However, if you’re not prepared to soak up some authentic local culture then you may want to avoid spending time there. Recently, I packed up the toilet paper and headed down to Kirivong, Takeo, the location of our pepper farm. ​

Baby Mt. Kirivong in Takeo Province

I can’t imagine there being too many countries better than Cambodia for riding dirt bikes. Anyone who is into such things knows Cambodia has been a great destination for motorcycle tourism. The province roads and off-road trails have offered a nice little challenge to anyone willing to tackle them. 

One of many hydro-electric dams built by the Chinese in Koh Kong

​Even though the majority of roads in Cambodia have undergone a major upgrade in the last decade there are still plenty challenging rides to be had. I never even owned a motorcycle before moving to Cambodia, but even riding through a place like Koh Kong,  the most scenic and varied provincial terrain, is no trouble for a novice like me.

Foreign development projects are the main reason why the roads in Cambodia have become so navigable. In Koh Kong, for instance, Chinese developers have made formal roadways out of what were once only dirt trails in order to service the several hydroelectric dams they have built.
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But don’t worry, if it's a trail riding challenge you seek in Cambodia, you won’t have to stray too far off the beaten path.

Getting to our pepper farm in Takeo province is a piece of cake (unless you factor in getting run off the highway by trucks). But I did manage one little trek worth reporting. For the first time, I made it to the top of what I call ‘Mt. Kirivong,’ the small mountain at whose base our pepper farm sits. In the past I’d circumnavigated the base of the mountain attempting to find the trail to the top - with no success.

But this time I had some help from one of the natives - my girlfriend.

Koh Kong dam project road

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Mini Dirt Bike Ride up Mount Kirivong

I had been planning on taking follow-up pictures of a 'haunted' house in town that had been riddled with bullet holes; a relic from the Khmer Rouge period. Maybe not coincidentally, the house shares a plot of land with the local police depot.  So the two of us pulled into the depot with our cameras in hand.

Sleepy police station in front of Mt. Kirivong

​We were greeted by some policemen lounging in hammocks (you won’t find an over-zealous police department in rural Cambodia). One kind fellow pointed us in the direction of the hidden trail that goes to the peak of Mt. Kirivong. I was so happy to finally find the trail to the top that I decided to shift focus. The Khmer Rouge relic follow-up photos would have to wait: An unplanned trip up the mountain beckoned us. 

There are no Chinese road development projects around this mountain. Just a rocky, sandy mountain trail - mostly eroded from the rains. Being that this was an impromptu trip I was slightly under-dressed: T-shirt, shorts & sandals. Not even gloves or a helmet. Alas, up the mountain we trekked. ​

You generally find one of two things at the top of a mountain trail in Cambodia: Buddha shrines or radio towers. we were greeted by the latter. The only sign of life: a lonely gentleman standing guard, confused by the sight of my pale face in such a remote place. Imagine the monotony of working security for a radio tower on a small mountain!

After we snapped some photos we made our way back down the sandy trail.

It was a pleasant, mildly challenging round-trip ride. However, I would be lying if I claimed we survived without incident. We didn't exactly fall off the mountain, but... you can check the video.

At the end of the day I was happy to scratch this Kirivong activity off the to-do list. Too tired for a photo shoot of the 'haunted' Khmer Rouge house, we headed home. My amateur documentary efforts were delayed till another day.